Pick the method that matches the part. FDM is the choice for larger, functional, load-bearing pieces at lower cost — brackets, enclosures, jigs, fixtures. Resin wins when you need fine detail and a smooth surface: miniatures, jewelry, dental and display models, intricate prototypes.

The trade-off: FDM parts are generally tougher for mechanical use, while standard resin is crisp but more brittle (tough and engineering resins narrow that gap). Many projects use both.

It can be, with the right precautions. Liquid resin and its vapors can irritate skin, eyes, and airways, so you need good ventilation, nitrile gloves, eye protection, and a dedicated area away from food, children, and pets.

Every part also needs an isopropyl-alcohol wash and a UV post-cure, plus safe disposal of waste. The handling is the main reason hobbyists outsource resin jobs rather than set up at home.

Strength depends on material, print orientation, infill, and wall count — not just “is it 3D printed.” Well-tuned FDM parts in PETG, ABS, ASA, or nylon handle genuine mechanical loads, with the weak axis running along the layer lines.

Standard resin is detailed but brittle; tough and engineering resins improve impact resistance. For anything load-bearing, FDM in the right material is usually the safer starting point.

Four things drive price: material used, machine time, electricity, and post-processing labor (support removal, washing, curing, finishing). Small parts can run a few dollars; large or highly detailed jobs cost more.

In San Diego, high electricity rates and hands-on labor factor in more than people expect. For repeat work, batch and production quotes get cheaper per unit as volume goes up.

From under an hour to several days. FDM time scales with size, layer height, and detail. Resin prints by total height, not volume, so a full plate of short parts can take about the same time as one tall part.

For commercial orders we give you a realistic lead time up front, including post-processing.

Generally no — not without extra steps. Standard FDM prints have microscopic gaps that can trap bacteria, and most resins are never food safe. Food contact requires a food-safe material plus sealing, or a certified food-safe coating.

Resin should never touch food, and dishwasher heat can warp PLA.

PLA is the wrong choice — it softens in heat and degrades under UV, so it fails in cars and outdoors. PETG, ASA, and ABS handle heat and sun far better and are the go-to for outdoor and automotive parts.

Resin can yellow and grow brittle under prolonged UV. If your part lives outside or in a vehicle, ask for a UV- and heat-stable material from the start.

You do. Your design and your files are yours. We treat customer models as confidential, print them for you, and don't resell or share them. If you send a file or a physical part to scan, it stays your property.

Yes. Beyond one-off prototypes, we run repeat and batch production — keychain runs, 100-unit orders, branded accessories, ongoing repeat jobs — with per-unit pricing that improves at volume and consistent quality control.

Send us the part, the quantity, and the deadline, and we'll quote it.

Buy if you print constantly and have staff time for calibration, maintenance, drying, and post-processing. Outsource if your needs are occasional, varied, or deadline-driven — a service absorbs the failed prints, wasted material, equipment cost, and learning curve.

Plenty of San Diego businesses outsource to us rather than tie up an employee babysitting machines.